(from Charmes proper; 70% whole cluster but without the central stem). A deft touch of wood sets off the earthy and mildly sauvage-inflected aromas that consist mainly of plum liqueur though like the Aux Réas there is a hint of volatile acidity lurking in the background. The velvety and generously proportioned middle-weight flavors retain reasonable detail on the delicious if not especially dense flavors that firm up on the lingering finish. The VA is sufficiently subtle that it probably won’t bother most tasters but it is incumbent upon me to point it out. 90/2028+