Helmut Donnhoff's children gave him and his wife Gabi a mid-December trip to Paris for his 60th birthday, thus setting up a potential conflict with what was to become his 2009 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein A.P. #35. "December was getting close," he explains, "and - damn it! - there were still grapes hanging in the Brucke. The day we were to leave, it got really cold and snowy, so much so that the flight to Paris was canceled. I pretended to be sad, but I wasn't. All I could think was 'tomorrow morning, we attack!' And so, we harvested Eiswein, and I was happy." With 250 liters like this, no wonder! Imagine raspberry and white peach syrup laced with fresh grapefruit, nut oils, salt, and vanilla cream. Hints of marzipan and white raisin point toward an ennobled note entirely harmoniously integrated into the classic confectionary elements of the Eiswein genre. The uncanny stream of primary juiciness would be unthinkable so deep into T.B.A. must weight were it not for the effect of deep frost. Creaminess and penetrating brightness; spherical self-sufficiency and electrical vibrancy; implosive extract and feather-like levity have seldom if ever been more strikingly combined. Over the next decade or two, this may even become more amazing. "In a great vintage with good weather this prolonged," remarks Helmut Donnhoff of 2009, only half in humor, "the only time limit to harvest is that set by the wild boar." And most of the excitement here this year - including the remarkable range of Spatlesen and the botrytis selections - was generated from a single week's picking in early November. "It's a year of the naked wine," adds Donnhoff, pointing to what he perceives as the stark portrayal of vineyard typicity that runs through his entire 2009 collection. His recent arrangement with the new Gut Hermannsberg (whose origins and inaugural vintage are canvassed elsewhere in this report) has taken Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube out of Helmut Donnhoff's line-up, while he has roughly doubled the surface area in the Hermannshohle under his control (to nearly 10 acres, or roughly half the Einzellage). The suggested retail prices I received from Donnhoff's importer represented significant price reductions vis-a-vis the last two years - and prices on the estate's private customer list have remained virtually unchanged for several years - adding yet another reason to seek them out. "I want to offer my customers good value," remarks Donnhoff with, in my view, considerable understatement, "and I'm proud of the fact that nobody in the trade who has bought from me has lost money reselling my wine." Terry Theise Estate Selections,